Muthappan: the god who eats with you

A deity outside the temple walls

Sree Muthappan does not live in a conventional temple. He lives in a madappura, a shrine where caste, religion and status do not matter. His offerings are toddy and dried fish; his companions are dogs; his food, cooked in enormous vessels, is served free to everyone who comes. At Parassinikkadavu, on the Valapattanam river, this happens every single day of the year.

Two forms, one god

Muthappan is performed as two Theyyams together: Thiruvappana, with the crescent headgear and bow, identified with Vishnu, and Vellattam, the smaller, more mobile form identified with Shiva. The Vellattam speaks with devotees one by one, listens and blesses. It is performed every morning (around 5:45 am) and evening (around 6:30 pm), and on festival days both forms appear.

Kunnathoor Padi

The original abode of Muthappan is Kunnathoor Padi, a forest hill shrine near Naduvil in the Western Ghats foothills. Here he befriended Chanthan the toddy-tapper. The Padi opens only in the season from Dhanu 2 to Makaram 30 (mid-December to mid-February) when thousands trek up for the daily Theyyams.

Visiting

• Parassinikkadavu is 18 km from Kannur, with buses every few minutes.
• Combine with the Snake Park (1 km) and a river boat ride.
• Everyone is welcome; dress modestly and accept the prasadam.